This part of our tour took us along the
Donau (Danube) from Linz to Krems mostly through mostly attractive countryside
but some industrial areas around Enns. We visited the WW2 German
concentration camp at Mauthausen which we had never heard of although it
was the third largest camp. Further east we reached the Wachau
region of wooded hillsides, vineyards and attractive riverside villages,
staying at another pleasant stellplatz, Susi's Donaustüberl (cafe-bar) at
Aggsbach Markt then at a campsite at Rossatzbach opposite Dürnstein, the
most popular tourist town along this stretch of the river and main stop-off for the cruise
liners; there
were six moored up at 8am in the morning!
We arrived at Linz on a sunny Sunday
lunchtime and found free parking along the main road on the south bank of
the Danube west of the main bridge. After lunch we took a stroll around
the city centre which was very neat and tidy in readiness its turn as the European
Capital of Culture in 2009. One of the reasons we visited Linz was to see the Ars Electronica Exhibition gallery as our sons are involved in this
art genre. We eventually found it on a back street (since relocated to a large
new building on the north bank). It was interesting if a bit quirky
especially the 3D visual simulator! After a walk along the promenade
and around the modern Lentos Kunstmuseum building we drove along to
Steyrigg where we found a pleasant stellplatz almost like a CL at Camping
Weber, a small motorhome service dealer in the hamlet of Pulgarn which had
a old monastery and a miniature railway society but only open at summer weekends.
The Donau at Linz and cruise boat
Linz main square
Lentos Kunstmuseum Linz
The main buildings of the large
concentration camp at Mauthausen are virtually intact. We looked in the
new visitor centre and bookshop but were put off by the coachloads of
mostly school parties so did not take the guided tour. These places are
best visited early or late in the day. Around the outside overlooking the
large quarry where most of the internees had to work there were many
memorials commemorating those who died from each country which we found
very moving
Mauthausen WW2 camp memorial
Mauthausen WW2 camp entrance
The Hungarian memorial at Mauthausen
Dürnstein is a popular stop-off for cruise boats on the Donau and has an attractive old centre
with an impressive baroque church and a ruined castle on the hill where
apparently Richard the Lionheart stayed
Dürnstein across Donau from Rossatz
Another cruise boat in the Wachau region
Modern gardens at the Tulln Garden Festival
The large garden festival at Tulln had over forty interesting garden layouts
ranging from modern and formal to wild and an eco-friendly one with an
insect hotel as well as strange
statues including one of a girl smoking a cigarette in the middle of a lake.
We spent an
interesting morning there before heading across country through the busy
towns of Baden and Eisenstadt to Rust on Neusiedler See, a
very large shallow lake which was mostly inaccessible due to tall
reed beds.
There was a large leisure resort (luckily closed!) adjacent to the campsite which
was mostly static vans, and many storks nests on the chimneys and rooftops
in the town centre. After an expensive (by our standards) overnight stay
and a shop at the Billa supermarket that was expensive and didn't accept
bank cards unless Austrian, we drove over the low hills towards St
Margerethen. Spotting some sculptures in the fields as we passed we
stopped to investigate and found several modern stone statues scattered
across the downland meadows and also a large outdoor theatre in the
adjacent stone quarry where operatic productions are held in the
summer.
Rust stork's nest by church
Sculpture on downs near Rust
Outdoor theatre in quarry
We continued the short distance to the Hungarian border again crossing
with no formalities and stopped in Sopron to buy a motorway vignette for
seven days at €11.50 from a Shell petrol station. Although there are
no tolls on Hungarian motorways there are cameras and you may be asked
to produce a valid vignette up to a year after your visit - so keep the
printout and receipt! After a shopping top-up at a Tesco supermarket on
the eastern exit of the town we tried to find the listed Camping Ozon in
the suburbs and after much searching and confused by our satnav, we
found it had closed down so headed east on a bumpy main road and found a
basic site listed on the ACSI DVD guide near Fertod 20km to the east.