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EUROPE TOUR 2008

For our big trip in 2008 we travelled to the newer EU countries of the Czech Republic and Hungary combined with slow meandering routes through Germany and Austria

Feature pages
2008 campsites and stellplatz lists
Germany and Austria
- River Weser and the Fairytale route  
- Harz and Thuringia
- Along the Danube to Hungary

- Back through Austria to Bavaria

- Through southern Germany
The Czech Republic and Hungary
- Spa towns  
- Around Prague
- Bohemian Paradise 
- Kutna Hora
- Hungary back to the Danube
 
- Budapest and Balaton




our European trip route 2008

Itinerary
We decided to avoid the long drive to Dover and chose the Harwich - Hook of Holland crossing having obtained a good price booking through the Caravan Club. We used daytime crossings leaving Harwich at 9am after staying overnight at a small campsite near Colchester but found the six hour travelling time a bit tedious without a cabin. The modern ferries don't have the recliner seat lounges unless you pay extra. After a pleasant Sunday afternoon drive to Zeist near Utrecht, we travelled through central Germany staying at stellplatz which we found to be excellent. We headed for the Weser river valley on the German fairytale route (one of fifty signposted tourist routes) then across to the Harz mountains which we enjoyed and through the Thuringia forest region to the Czech border near Cheb. 

We stayed at a pleasant lakeside campsite for three days from where we visited the fascinating spa towns of Mariensky Lazne and Frantiskovy Lazne. We looked at the bubbling wells at Soos (unique in mainland Europe) and then headed east via minor roads to the large spa at Karlovy Vary. We continued east with a diversion to the castle at Karlstejn, very touristy, and on to Prague staying at a campsite on the west side near a Metro station. After a full day in the city centre (we aren't city lovers) we headed to the Cesky Raj "Bohemian Paradise" region with its rock cities and castles then south to the cathedral town of Kutna Hora with an intriguing ossuary. We continued south to another lakeside campsite near Trebic. From there we visited Slavonice, an amazing town of decorated buildings and the more famous similar town of Telc before heading to Cesky Krumlov which we found very interesting, and Lake Lipno.

Crossing into Austria we drove south to Linz on the Danube then turned east following the river, staying at a mix of campsites and stellplatz, visiting the German WW2 camp at Mauthausen which we hadn't heard of previously, then to the pretty Wachau region of the Danube between Melk and Krems staying just across from Durnstein, a popular stop-off for the many large river cruise boats. After spending an enjoyable morning at the large garden festival at Tulln we skirted south of Vienna to the large lake of Neusiedlersee, mostly surrounded by high reedbeds. A short drive took us into Hungary and after stopping at Sopron to buy a vignette, and a shopping trip at a large Tesco store, we found a small campsite near Esterhazy Castle. From there we headed to Pannonhalma, a huge abbey on a hill (a Unesco World heritage site), then north via Tata to Esztergom, once more on the Danube with a large basilica and castle, also a road bridge to Slovakia which we visited for ten minutes having taken a wrong turn across the bridge! Luckily there are no border crossing delays these days.

After looking at the Danube Bend from a nature park we approached the Budapest area where the roads suddenly became much busier. Needing a shopping top-up we followed supermarket signs on the main road but with no indication of distance drove miles eventually finding a large Cora hypermarket which at least provided some relief from the 80C afternoon heat. We turned back to Szentendre another popular tourist town and found a campsite. The next day we drove into Budapest and after some unintended diversions in horrendous traffic found a small campsite near the Duna Plaza shopping mall (with M&S etc which we didn't visit). We spent a day in the city travelling in on the metro but due to various factors mostly the confusing language and signs, missed some of the main tourist attractions and didn't enjoy the city as much as Prague. Ending up in Margit szigt island we took the waterbus back to the campsite. That evening a French motorhome arrived at 10pm and we discovered that they had parked for the day in the city centre and had everything stolen from inside the van except the clothes they were wearing! We decided to head back west and after a very slow journey out of the city drove on the good motorway to Lake Balaton the largest lake in Europe at 40 miles long. We stopped at Tihany for lunch then drove on to a campsite near Kesthely. The next morning we called in at the smart spa town of Heviz with its (slightly radioactive) lake full of people floating around on rubber and foam rings and returned to Austria.

We stayed at a campsite/stellplatz at Bad Waltersdorf with several spa resorts in the area before taking the autobahn bypassing Graz and driving across an easy mountain pass to Fisching near Judenburg then across the Obertauern pass with many bikers to Altenmarkt im Pongau and a stellplatz on a farm. Continuing west we took the autobahn towards Germany bypassing Salzburg and turning north at the border to visit a few interesting small towns and the large lake of Chiemsee. We then turned south again for a circuit through the Bavarian Alps staying at a delightful small lake of Spitzingsee then via Oberammergau and the impressive Schloss Linderhof to Füssen a very popular motorhome stopover. From there our route took us west through Bad Waldsee and near the source of the Danube to Rottweil. 

After a couple of days in the Black Forest we crossed the Rhine on a small free car ferry (3.5T limit) at Greffern into France for one day and a food top-up in a large Auchan hypermarket west of Haguenau, before continuing north and back into Germany through the wooded Pfälzerwald region to the Mosel then on to the Dutch border and an easy drive, apart from the Rotterdam ring road, to the ferry and Harwich 
   

Campsites
We stayed overnight at mostly excellent stellplatz (aires) in Germany and Austria in preference to the more expensive campsites, but only stayed at campsites in the Czech Republic and Hungary where "wild" camping is not permitted, using those listed in the ACSI camping card low season discount scheme wherever possible. 

Czech campsites were a mix of high quality with good amenities, several with Dutch owners, and more basic but adequate sites. Most of the sites we stayed at in Hungary were in need of some updating especially of their facilities but were adequate  as we rarely use campsite amenity blocks preferring to use those in our motorhome.

Most stellplatz had a sani-station or similar service point where there was a small charge usually a €1 coin for a set volume of fresh water. Sometimes electricity was also available at typically 50cent per kW-hour although we normally didn't bother with a hookup. A couple of stellplatz charged for waste water disposal by having a padlocked cover.

2008 campsites and stellplatz lists

Costs
Ferry
£135 return on Stena Line Harwich to Hook of Holland (about six hours crossing time) on Sunday daytime crossings with no extras, booked through the Caravan Club

Fuel : £776 (€978):  674 litres (150 gallons) 4350 miles (about 29mpg)

Campsites: €368 for 32 nights cheapest €3.00, dearest €21 per night (14 nights on ACSI discount sites)
Stellplatz  : €118 for 26 nights cheapest free, dearest €12 (including tourist tax) 

Gas: single refillable Gaslow 6kg cylinder topped up four times (33 litres) costing €24

Photo features  

Germany and Austria
- River Weser and the Fairytale route  
- Harz and Thuringia
- Along the Danube to Hungary

- Back through Austria to Bavaria

- Through southern Germany
The Czech Republic and Hungary
- Spa towns  
- Around Prague
- Bohemian Paradise 
- Kutna Hora
- Hungary back to the Danube
 
- Budapest and Balaton

 

 

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