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Fitting Safeways D125 deadlocks to a Peugeot Boxer (year 2000 model)

These notes are only for guidance based on my experiences for fitting the deadlocks to the front, sliding and rear doors of our Autosleeper van conversion and the instructions supplied with the locks should be adhered to.  No liability is accepted for errors.

Tools needed
Adjustable square
Adjustable spanner (10inch)
Tape measure
Masking tape
Centre punch
Ratchet screwdriver and bits
Round and square (or triangular)files
Small file set
HSS drill bits for pilot holes
Hole saws 16 mm dia, 19mm dia and mandrel

Not shown in picture:
Long bladed electrical screwdriver
Thin bladed or stripping knife
Hammer
Junior hacksaw
Electric drill (portable preferred)

Front doors
Remove the door trim using a flexible knife eg a stripping knife around the edge of the trim panel. I found that the plastic plugs remained in the door. These should be removed and refitted to the hardboard for re-assembly as they have a cam action. The window winder is retained with a wire clip which can be pushed away using a long thin bladed screw driver. The door release lever surround is also removed by depressing the clips through holes in the plastic moulding.
Screwfix sell a trim removal tool which would make this operation easier.

The position for the locks was 216 mm down from the edge of the cut out for the catch.  The barrel has to be fitted as near to the inside edge as possible due the length of the lock assembly. Use the barrel as a template.  Also the splined shafts will require shortening.

       

It was easiest to use the adjustable square to transfer the lock centreline to the edge of the door then mark the keyhole position to masking tape applied to the door using the square against the door edge.

Sliding door
(lock fitted to rear edge with barrel in door as it was not possible to remove interior trim to assemble lock if fitted to body pillar). The lock was fitted so that the key bezel was just below the trim stripes as shown.

The 19mm hole saw was found to be under-size for the threaded boss but this allowed the hole to be filed out so that the thread and flats were a snug fit and slight adjustment of the hole centre could be made to align with the central (Y) spline hole in the barrel. A triangular file was used to cut the recess for the keyed washer to prevent lock rotation.

     

To fit the plate to the frame, apply several layers of masking tape to the frame then close the door and operate the lock hard against the tape. It may help to put some biro ink on the end of the lock (unfortunately it doesn't have a centre pip like some door security bolts). The hole plate was fitted sideways to the sliding door frame.

     

Rear door
This was fitted with the striker plate rather than a hole due to the large gap between the doors. (It could have been fitted slightly lower to miss the LPG sign!)

General notes:

BEWARE - The insides of the doors have sharp edges!

Allow plenty of time to carry out this project and measure twice before drilling any holes. 

All locks were installed with the spline in the centre hole Y and the splined shafts need shortening. The additional splined rods must be fitted into hole Z with their retainer tubing to prevent the lock being wound out too far. 

The countersunk head screws supplied were not properly threaded (chipboard screws?) to tighten into the thin metal and were replaced by M4 countersunk bolts, nuts and lock-washers which were very fiddly to assemble inside the doors (a nut driver in the ratchet screwdriver with an extension bar and some Blu-tac helped) or pan-head self tap screws for the hole-plates.

The brass bolts for the front doors needed shortening to flush with the barrel to allow the doors to close and operate with one turn.

The rear door lock needs two turns to give sufficient throw of the bolt. 

The lock bolts were assembled so that they all locked with a clockwise turn of the key. 
File the nib off one of the spare keys so that it can operate the lock and be removed when testing the locks if the splines become mis-aligned with the rackbolt before finally tightening the lock assembly retaining nut.

Thanks to the following website for initial guidance before I undertook this project:
http://www.xor.org.uk/unimog/mymog/deadlock.htm
Please e-mail me with any comments on this project

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