We
retraced our route
to St Girons and took the main road to Foix, a
busy town. The aire was in an industrial area which didn't appeal, so we
continued to the pleasant aire at Montferrier, in wooded hills,
once
a
centre for talc mining with thirteen factories, but now an almost
deserted village. The next morning took us past nearby Montségur, the
last Cathar stronghold on a high rock, (we wondered at the effort
required to build a castle so high up), and a river at Fontestorbe,
which apparently disappears every hour or so in the summer. We then
came
across the small village of Camon, one of the Plus Beaux villages, with
roses and hollyhocks everywhere, before reaching Mirepoix with its
colonnaded town
square, for lunch.
Fontestorbe disappearing river
After a frustrating afternoon's driving, calling in to
a couple of towns to find the aires closed, we decided to head
for Camping de la Cité at Carcassone. The aire adjacent to the
campsite was being extended but we chose to stay on the campsite for
the night. The carpark nearest the cité charges €20 flat rate for
motorhomes even for just 15 minutes. We walked about a mile to the cité,
and wandered around the ramparts and narrow streets, but in
the early evening the museums had closed and nightlife, mainly
restaurants, hadn't started yet so it was rather quiet - which suited
us.
Carcassone
The next day we headed east to the marina at Homps on the
Canal du Midi, where there was free motorhome parking, and
pleasant walks and cycling. We then drove north to the small Plus Beau
village of Minerve, set on a rock with a ruined castle tower, surrounded
on three sides by a deep gorge. Shortly after leaving we heard
motorbikes and stopped to watch a group of riders performing amazing
tricks and loops over high ramps in the valley below us.
We decided to head for the coast, and drove, on ever busier main roads to
Narbonne, where the traffic was horrendous. We eventually found a route
out on quieter roads to the pleasant coastal town of Gruissan, and
headed for the aire at Gruissan Plage, by the large sandy beach and ugly
chalet complex.
Having spent a night by the Med, we drove along to the sprawl of
low-rise resorts of Narbonne Plage and St Pierre sur Mer, then
turned
inland to Béziers, another large busy town and on the free A75 autoroute
to Pézenas, where we discovered the interesting old town centre.
Pézenas
After a pleasant wander around for a couple of hours, we returned to the
autoroute for a short distance to Clermont Hérault, and the
aire at the campsite at Lac du Salagou, where we had stayed a few years
previously. Having paid the overnight fee, we walked along the
lakeside and discovered that motorhomes could park free overnight at
some of the carparks! A drive around the lake the next morning took us
to Celles, a deserted village evacuated when the reservoir was built,
but someone must have miscalculated as it was in fact several metres
above the water level.