We set off next
morning towards St Malo, diverting off the main road to the small
attractive village of Saint Suliac, on the Rance estuary but
above the barrage so more like a large lake. After a stroll around and
picking up some useful tourist information in their small tourist
bureau in the mairie, we re-joined the now very busy main road (being a
Saturday), and drove around the edge of St Malo to reach the coast
at Rothéneuf, where there were some old sculptures carved on the rocks. Having
paid €2.50 each to enter, we just about managed to negotiate the very uneven
and rather hazardous paths trying to work out the weather worn
shapes of faces, birds and animals.

Rock sculptures at Rothéneuf
We continued along the coast to
another headland, where we parked by the roadside with several other
motorhomes, and walked to the Pointe du Grouin with lovely views
over the sea with the Îles Chausey on the horizon. After a pleasant
sunny afternoon, we drove to Cancale passing many sheds on
the seashore selling oysters, and pulled in to the small aire at St
Benoît-des-Ondes for the
night.
Pointe de Grouin
The next morning we spotted lots of cars parked on the beach
as we reached Hirel, so we parked up to visit a vide grenier (car
boot sale), but it was mostly the same overpriced tat as we find at
home. At Le Vivier-s-Mer we turned inland to visit Mont Dol, and
walked up to the hilltop windmill and monument with good views across
to Le Mont-St-Michel. After stopping at a Super U for fuel, (closed but
luckily our Nationwide debit card worked ok at the automatic pump -
must remember to fill up before Sundays!), we continued inland, heading
for a nature park marked on the map but we couldn't find it so continued
along country lanes through various plain rural villages, passing a
pond with model boat enthusiasts, before reaching Pontorson and the
busy road to Le Mont-St-Michel, with lots of tourist attractions and coaches,
to park for the night with many other motorhomes on the tidal flats (now closed) -
luckily high tides weren't forecast.

motorhome parking at Mont-St-Michel
Le Mont-St-Michel is probably one of the most visited places in France,
but by the evening most of the tourists had left, so we walked
up the narrow streets to the abey, returning to the van
as the floodlighting was turned on when we thought it looks most
impressive.
After a dry night, it was time for a longer drive
east across Normandy, so we stayed on main roads calling in at
Villedieu-les-Poêles which only has a couple of copperware showrooms
left - I seem to remember the main road was lined with gift shops back
in the 1970's - and headed across rolling farmland to Condé-s- Noireau,
and a diversion to the Roche d'Oêtre, overlooking a wooded gorge in
the Normandie Suisse region, now with a large new visitor centre,
but still unfenced rock edges. From there we continued to Vimoutier and
another free aire for the night near the creamery, where Le
President Camembert cheese is made (24 hours a day unfortunately).
There were several dairy themed statues in the town.
We
took the main road north to Lisieux, and a minor road
to the west of the river to Pont-l'Eveque, and followed the signs
to
Honfleur, another popular tourist destination where we found a space in
the (daytime only) motorhome parking area next to the busy aire on the
harbour. We joined the crowds walking around the old port, and then
found some quieter back streets with many very old timbered houses.
After lunch, we drove along to the Pont de Tancarville toll bridge,
crossing the Seine further upriver than the much higher and newer Pont
de Normandie,
and up to the coast at Fécamp, where the aire next to the warehouses on
the harbour didn't look too inviting, so we continued along the coast to
the small resort of St-Pierre-en-Port, where we found a campsite on
the clifftop above the white chalk cliffs. The
next morning we continued east along the coast road, passing several
aires in the small seaside towns. The one at St Valery-en-Caux is
very popular but we didn't like the very narrow unguarded access
road along the harbour wall below the cliffs, and it was full anyway
with vans packed in very close together - sometimes we would rather pay
more for some
green space on a campsite.
We stopped for lunch on the
almost deserted promenade at Dieppe. In previous years like most
Brits we had driven straight away from the town when arriving by ferry,
but it reminded us of Southsea with its large green on the sea front
and lively shopping area, and is probably a lot more attractive on
a warm summer's day. You could still get the Plat du Jour for €7.20
in some harbourside cafés! Heading inland we cut across country to the
valley of the Somme and through a string of villages
and commuter towns to Amiens.