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Touring > Europe 2008 > The Czech Republic 2008 -
South Bohemia
THE CZECH REPUBLIC - South
Bohemia
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Heading south from Kutna Hora through gentle hilly countryside we arrived
at a pleasant lakeside campsite Camping Vidlak in the small village of
Opotov near Trebic, run by a friendly Dutch couple with great enthusiasm
especially for recycling! This site was well situated for visiting several
picturesque towns including Telc and Slavonice.
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We spent an afternoon in the main district town of
Trebic, actually just in the Moravia region, quite industrial but with a few interesting sights - the decorated house and tower with the
largest clock face in the country. We wandered round the UNESCO Heritage listed Jewish quarter of
small narrow streets and visited the cemetery with ancient tombstones and
a rather low key memorial to the thousands of Jews who died during and
between the First and Second world wars. After a short detour through the
castle grounds we returned to the busy main square to find a
local was taking a keen interest in our van peering into the windows so
we hurried back and wished him "dobry den" before driving off!
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Trebic - decorated house and clock tower
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Further south almost on the border with Austria we found
the small town of Slavonice, in our opinion the most attractive
with lovingly restored façades covered in s'graffito showing biblical and
historical scenes almost like newspaper cartoon strips all over the buildings. Like
many of the towns we passed, there were many old buildings, some renovated others awaiting their turn.
Overlooking the main
square was the church tower with a gallery you can visit at certain times,
and a typical Vietnamese run shop selling the most grotesque ornaments (at
least to us). We later came across a garden full of them in Germany!
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Slavonice main square
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Slavonice - s'graffito decorated house
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Slavonice - more s'graffito decorated houses
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Slavonice - detail of s'graffito
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Slavonice - s'graffito
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Slavonice - Vietnamese shop window
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From there we drove on to Telc, another UNESCO heritage listed town, where the
large square was lined with pastel coloured decorated buildings almost out
of Western film-set. At one end of the square stands the twin towered church of St
James, and a large chateau with a tower with viewing gallery. The old town
centre is surrounded by three large lakes. In the gardens of the chateau
we came across an old wooden caravan and rows of benches - this was the
outdoor cinema!
When we returned to the car park for tea, again there were several local
people hanging around but this time not interested in our motorhome.
Suddenly a small truck arrived and they proceeded to buy a few live
chickens each, taking them to their cars in sacks and cardboard
boxes!
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Telc - decorated buildings
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Telc - church and tower
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Telc - "Filmset" main square
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After returning to Camping Vidlak for the
evening and being studiously observed by the many Dutch caravanners on the
site, we headed west along mostly empty roads bypassing the large
industrial town of Jindrichuv Hradec and on to Trebon in a very flat
marshy area and popular with groups of cyclists on all the roads. Reaching more hilly
countryside on minor lanes we paused at Rimov, a pilgrimage town where we
walked around the Way of the Cross path, about two miles through the
countryside with shrines and tableaux depicting the Stations of the Cross,
all in different styles some very old and damaged, (the first were built
in 1658) others newer and well looked after. According to the map outside
the church there were twenty five of them rather than the usual fourteen.
There is also a large church and Loreto chapel built by the Jesuit
community.
From there we continued to Cesky Krumlov, a major tourist city which was
heaving with coaches in the afternoon, so we drove on to find an empty campsite a couple of miles to
the west. In the evening we drove back to the centre of Cesky Krumlov,
parking in the P2 carpark and strolled around the old town centre for a
couple of hours.
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